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Keep your garden free of pesticides and synthetic fertilizers and garden the organic way.

Get the most out of nature and enjoy a garden that is free of pesticides and synthetic fertilizers.

These days, many things come organically. We often hear of organic produce, organic meats and organic health and beauty products. Perhaps the best way to go organic, however, is in your garden. Pesticides, fungicides and herbicides can severely damage your garden and your lawn, but organic gardening works with the garden’s natural system to produce a healthier garden.

If you’re thinking about turning your garden into an organic one, read the tips below and find out if organic gardening is right for you. Chances are, it is!

1. Plan Ahead
   In general, planning is good for any new project you take on, including an organic garden. Think about the elements of a garden that are important to you. Organic gardening incorporates all of nature-it is an eco-system consisting of soil, water supply, wildlife and insects. Think about your organic garden and how it looks and works, and then jot down your wants and needs. This is an effective way to plan, and you can reference your notes and tweak when necessary.
2. All About Soil
   In essence, organic gardening starts with the soil. Soil is the heart of an organic garden. When soil is nourished with organic substances, it becomes fertile and moist. This enriched soil produces a garden that is abundant with healthy plants, flowers and organisms.
3. Compost ­- An Inexpensive & Beneficial Fertilizer
   Kitchen scraps. Grass trimmings. Fallen leaves. Deceased plants and animals. Coffee grounds. Wood chips. What do all of these things have in common? They make great compost-a mineral-rich, dark brown material consisting of decomposed organic matter that is ideal for fertilizing soil and controlling soil erosion. Compost is an important component in organic gardening, as the waste is all natural and full of nutrients. You should mix compost with the soil in your organic garden every week or two.
4. Additional Organic Fertilizers
   Compost, while highly beneficial, is not the only organic fertilizer you can use in an organic garden. For natural fertilizer that is chock full of nutrients, try the following:
   • Bone meal – This is self-explanatory, as it consists of crushed bones. Provides a good supply of phosphorous.
   • Manure - If properly mixed in with the soil, manure from a cow, chicken, horse or sheep is a great way to fertilize an organic garden. (To cut down on the stinch, you can compost the manure first.) A good supply of nitrogen.
   • Epsom salt – A natural approach to increase the amount of sulfur and magnesium in the soil.
   • Compost tea ­- Place compost in water and let decompose. Spray on soil and plants. This nutrient-rich fertilizer is a good supply of microorganisms and humus
5. Out with Herbicides & Pesticides!
   A no-brainer, herbicides and pesticides scream murder on an organic garden (or any garden, for that matter). While pesticides may serve a purpose of some kind, they often kill the good insects that help repel problematic pests. There are safe, natural products on the market, as well as some recipes you can make yourself, that will help your garden flourish the organic way.

• Did You Know? Peppers, catnip and garlic serve as natural pesticides, and corn gluten meal serves as a fungicide and herbicide, as well as a good supply of nitrogen fertilizer.

Now that you’re armed with 5 great tips to turn your garden into an organic one, it’s time to step outside and get to work. Nurturing your garden the organic way not only benefits the environment, but also serves as a fun pastime!

Compacted soil makes it harder for you lawn to recieve all the necessary nutrients and water.

Soil compaction is a potentially deadly problem for lawn grass.  Compaction is a factor in every type of soil, though some types are more prone to compaction problems than others.  There are some routine lawn maintenance activities that will help you alleviate soil compaction and keep your grass growing strong.

Why is Soil Compaction a Problem?

Soil contains many different elements, including air, water, mineral particles, organic matter, insects, worms, nutrient particles and other elements.  Each of these elements work together like finely calibrated parts of a machine to grow healthy plants.  Whenever one of the elements is out of balance, the entire function of soil is disrupted, thus impacting the health of plants growing in the soil.  Compaction of soil is just like compaction of anything else-a literal “squashing” of the soil particles together.  When soil particles are compacted together, the structure is impacted.  Soil structure determines how much space is available for air and water movement in the soil.  Compaction removes spaces for air and water, making both less available for plants.

How can you tell if Soil is Compacted?

A very easy way to tell if your soil is compacted is if it is hard.  Soil that is not compacted will have a springy feel.  Compacted soil is not springy. If it is difficult to put a shovel into the soil, it is probably compacted.  Lawn grass does not grow well in compacted soil, and weeds out-compete and thrive.  Areas with a lot of weed problems are likely compacted.  Lastly, if the soil is in an area with heavy foot or vehicle traffic, it is undoubtedly compacted.

How to Alleviate Soil Compaction

Though soil compaction is a serious problem, the methods to alleviate soil compaction are fairly straightforward, and involve aerating and top-dressing with light compost or organic matter.  Here’s how to do it:

• Mow the lawn about 1/3 shorter than you would normally mow.
• Water the lawn deeply at least twice, a few days before aerating.
• Aerate with a punch core aerator (not a spike aerator).
  • This part of soil compaction alleviation is best done by a professional. Professional lawn maintenance companies are more likely to have a punch core aerator in good working condition, and have the skills and strength to work with it.
• Top-dress with a lightweight compost and rake it into the lawn.
• Continue to water and mow as normal.

When you follow these steps to aerate, you will add organic matter into the soil and encourage growth and activity of insects and invertebrates that will further break down and improve soil structure.  Once you have alleviated soil compaction problems, your lawn will be healthier, include fewer weeds, and will require less maintenance in the long run.

It is important to choose the appropriate soil for your grass type.

Lawn care is made easier with a full understanding of soil types, soil conservation practices and soil classification. 

Topsoil conservation is a chief concern in areas with lots of residential or industrial development.  If you live in a new house or a recently developed neighborhood, chances are great that the good topsoil that was once on your house lot is now gone, scraped away and sold by the developer.  You have to determine what is left, and how to conserve good soil and improve less than desirable soil.

Soil classification is an important first step to building a lawn. Without properly identifying the type of soil your lawn contains or if the soil has any problems, a newly planted lawn may have trouble getting off to a healthy start.

What is in Soil?

• Pebbles and rocks
• Air
• Water
• Mineral particles (large and small)
• Nutrients dissolved in water, and nutrients bonded to soil particles
• Organic matter (twigs, leaves and other un-decomposed items)
• Humus (completely composted organic matter)
• Bacteria, fungi, insects, worms, animals and other living things

Soil Structure

The soil structure is partially affected by the types of particles in it.  A sandy soil will be loose, with lots of large air spaces in between particles.  Silty soil will also be loose, but it’s particles are smaller, so these soils have smaller pores (spaces for air or water).  Clay soil can become highly compacted.  You can tell if your soil is compacted by pouring water onto it.  If it splashes right off, and does not soak in, your soil is compacted.  You can remedy this by aerating the soil, or forking it up with a four pronged, short-handled garden fork.  The fork pictured, right, is the right type of fork to aerate your soil.  (Not your lawn!)  Simply stick the fork into the ground and use your feet to push the fork at an angle closer to the ground, lifting the soil.

Soil Texture

Your success with lawn care relies upon understanding your soil.  That will help you identify what things need to be added to the soil to make it more hospitable to plants and to beneficial organisms living in the soil.

Soil Classification

Soils are classified by the amount of sand, silt and clay in the soil.  (Sand, Silt and Clay are soil particles that have different properties.)  There are entire contests devoted to correctly identifying the official “soil type.”  Soil types include:

• Clay
• Sandy Clay Loam
• Loam
• Silty Clay Loam
• Sand
• Sandy Loam or Silty Loam
• Silt

It is not necessarily important to know exactly what your soil type is.  It is more helpful to be able to identify whether your soil has a high concentration of one of the three types of particle sizes.  Here is what to look for:

Sandy Soils

• Easy to cultivate
• Does not form clods or clumps
• Warms quickly in spring
• Feels gritty
• Moderate risk of soil erosion

Silty Soils

• Not as easy to dig when wet
• Very dusty if dry
• Moderate to high levels of organic matter
• Difficult to correct soil pH if out of line
• High erosion risk from wind and water
• Feels silky and smooth

Clay Soils

• Cannot dig easily when wet or dry
• Cannot cultivate while wet, at the risk of extreme compaction
• Soil is sticky
• Low risk of erosion

The best soil feels like pie crust before rolling it out when you push it between your thumb and your hand.  If your soil feels out of balance-too much clay or sand, the best way to improve it is to add organic matter.  Organic matter to soil is like spinach to people:  it cures almost all soil ailments.  Organic matter improves drainage, and water retention.  Healthy lawns start with healthy soil.  Understanding different types of soil classification can help with soil conservation efforts and overall lawn care.