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Planting a rye grass lawn is similar to planting lawns of any other grass type.  Prepping the lawn area properly will result in a lawn that is quicker to fill in and healthier in the long run.  How do you know if planting a rye grass lawn is right for you?  How do you determine that rye grass will grow best in the growing conditions of your lawn area?  Here are the vital stats about Perennial Rye Grass:

Hardiness zone: 3-9

Optimum pH: 5.8-7.2

Days to germination: 5-10

Mowing height: 3-4 inches

Water requirements: average

Growth spread: via clumps

Nitrogen requirement: 2-3 pounds per 1000 sq. ft.

Shade tolerance: low

Disease resistance: high

Insect resistance: high

Heat tolerance: medium

Cold tolerance: medium

As you can see from reading the above characteristics, rye grass is a good type of grass for most sunny locations in the central United States.  Be careful not to confuse perennial rye grass with annual rye grass.  Annual rye grass is often used to overseed warm season grass lawns in the south during the winter.  Perennial rye grass seed is good to add to lawn grass seed mixtures in the north and north-central areas of the US.

Perennial Ryegrass Distribution

Seeding a New Rye Grass Lawn

Rye grass grows well and fast from seed.  It is not as aggressive as some other types of turf because it spreads by growing larger clumps, rather than sending out rhizomes or stolons.  Therefore, the seeding rate is higher than for some other grasses.  If you plant a rye lawn from seed, you will need to sow about 8-10 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet, which is on the high end.  Fescues sometimes have a higher seed rate.  One good attribute of perennila ryegrass is that it germinates quickly and establishes a deep root system, so it is excellent to plant in areas where erosion is a concern.  It will sprout and maintain a steep incline very quickly.

Establishing a new lawn requires good technique druing three different phases:  preparation, planting and care after planting.  Make sure you follow these tips during this critical time of lawn establishment.

Prepping

Don’t skimp on the prep work for your new lawn!  If you do, you will pay for it time and time again.  Always add as much good quality soil or soil/compost mix to the area where you are going to plant the new lawn.  Have the soil tested and correct any nutrient deficiencies or pH issues before planting.  (At this stage, you cannot use synthetic fertilizer, as it can inhibit root growth.  If you need to add nitrogen, use a feedmeal.)  Rake the soil so that it is even, and soak it thoroughly a day or two before planting.

Planting

Put about 1/3 of the grass seed you will use into your spreader.  Spread that load of seed.  Repeat twice, for the entire lawn area, walking in a different direction.  (This is similar to varying your mowing pattern.)  This will allow for even coverage.  When you have put down all of the seed, roll the seed lightly with a drum roller filled about halfway with water.  This will ensure that the grass seed is in good contact with the soil.

Care after Planting

Cover the rye grass seed with a VERY thin (1/4 an inch or less) layer of compost, and water the lawn about twice a day for about ten minutes.  Use a sprinkler, not an unbroken hose stream, which will wash away the grass.  Until the grass seed is fully growing, continue to water at least once a day, gradually tapering off.  You will be able to mow after about 6-8 weeks.  Set your mower blade as high as it will go, and mow once or twice a week.  Evaluate the new planting about four months after you have installed the lawn.  Overseed any areas that are thin.

Planting a rye grass lawn makes sense for most homeowners in its favored location.  It is a hardy, disease resistant, low maintenance turf.

Even though it can be hard work, planting a new lawn is a rewarding process. Follow our step by step procedure for planting a lawn to get it right the first time!

Few things are as exciting for a homeowner than planting a new lawn.  With a bit of grass seed or a few pallets of sod, a lush, new outdoor carpet awaits.  There is more to installing a new lawn than throwing down some sod or planting grass seed, though.  A little bit of planning goes a long way toward growing a healthy lawn.

Step One:  Seed or Sod

Before you can begin the rest of your planning, you need to decide if you are going to plant grass seed or lay sod.  The preparation for both is somewhat similar, but the maintenance and time for establishment is different for each.  A seeded lawn takes longer to establish, but is less expensive than sod.  Sod must be carefully maintained during the first month after installation to maintain even growth.  It is difficult to repair sod that dies in patches.  It is much easier to overseed a seeded lawn if some areas do not germinate well.

Step Two:  Prepare the Soil

Whether you are planting a grass seed lawn or laying a sod lawn, the number one factor in long-term success is the preparation beforehand.  Sod has been carefully tended on a sod farm, growing in the best soil with the exact amount of water and food needed to set good roots.  Moving sod from the sod farm to an unprepared base more or less spells instant death for the grass.  Likewise for grass seed.  If there is one single thing you can do to increase the success of your newly established lawn, it is to properly prepare the soil.  Here’s what you need to do:

• First, kill any perennial weeds.  If you are installing a lawn in a particularly weedy area, you may need to go through a few cycles of turning the soil over, letting the weeds germinate and then killing them to reduce the weed seed bank.
• Prepare soil amendments and till them into the soil.  The best soil for grass is sandy loam.  That means a soil that has some sand and some organic matter.  If the soil is all sand, or a very hard clay, you will want to till in a compost/topsoil mix to improve the soil structure and fertility.  It is important to incorporate the elements into the existing soil.  If you simply lay new soil on top of old soil, you can cause a drainage problem because water will not move well from one layer to the next—it could drain too fast or too slowly.

Step Three:  Install the Sod or Plant the Grass Seed

• When installing sod, it is important to stagger the strips so that your lawn does not look like a checkerboard.  Lay the two pieces of sod down, end to end, with about an inch or two of overlap on each end.  Then push the ends together and down to the ground.
• Grass seed can be sown directly on top of the soil.  To keep the seed moist, straw can be spread on top of the seed.  Do not use hay or straw with seed heads, as you will run the risk of incorporating weeds into your new lawn.

Step Four:  Maintain the New Lawn

• With seed and sod, it is important to keep foot traffic off the lawn until it is established.  Sod needs about 3-4 weeks to establish.  A lawn planted with grass seed needs at least two months before any foot traffic is allowed, and up to four months before it can withstand heavy foot traffic.
• After the lawn is established, apply a granular pre emergence herbicide to keep weeds from sprouting in the new lawn.  Do NOT apply this herbicide at the time of planting, as it will interfere with establishment.
• Begin a routine watering maintenance program.

Next, enjoy your newly planted lawn.  You deserve it!

Blue grama grass, Bouteloua gracilis, is a staple grass of short-grass prairies in North America.  It is highly drought-tolerant, can be grown as an ornamental grass or as a turf, and has low feeding requirements.  Blue grama is one of the best grass types for establishing a lawn, or alternative lawn in the arid, mountainous regions of the interior west-Colorado, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, Idaho, etc.  It doesn’t tolerate cold, moist winters well.  It can be slow to establish again if disrupted.  However, when maintained according to its preferences, it is hard to beat as a superior grass types for certain regions of the United States.

Planting a Blue Grama Grass Lawn

Because of its versatility as a lawn grass and an ornamental grass, some people are loathe to use this grass type for turf.  It is, actually, a great turfgrass, especially in dry regions because it doesn’t require a lot of supplemental water.  To establish a lawn with this grass, you will need to need to seed about two months before the first frost in the fall at a rate of 3-4 lbs. per 1,000 feet.  You can also establish from plugs or plants. Because the grass grows in a clumping fashion, you cannot usually establish a blue grama grass lawn from sod.  Blue grama grass seed is very light and fluffy.  Mixing the grass seed with sand prior to sowing will help ensure that the seed is evenly distributed.  The seed will generally sprout within 7-10 days during warm weather, with even moisture.

Maintaining the Lawn

Grama grass is versatile.  It is equally at home in the perennial border as it is in the lawn.  You can mow this grass to a height of about 3 or 4 inches during the summer-which requires routine mowing.  You can also let it grow, mowing it two or three times during the year.  (With a mower or a trimmer.)  You can also plant your own little meadow, and let Blue grama grow, un-touched throughout the season.  Once established, it is drought tolerant and will require no supplemental water.  Fertilize with only 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in the fall.  Otherwise, no fertilizer is needed.  This grass has few major pest and disease problems.  It can, however, be affected by the following:  Damping off (during germination), fungal spot, root rot, rust, and smuts.  (Fungal problems are the worst enemy of this grass.  These problems are heightened in wet areas.  It truly grows best in arid conditions.)

Grass Fun Facts

• Blue Grama is more than a turf-grass.  It is one of the climax species of the shortgrass prairie
• Letting it grow and produce seed-heads will give your lawn a distinctive look
• The grass seed provides food for a variety of birds and wildlife
• This grass can be sown as part of a wildflower mixture

If you live in the arid interior west, and would like to plant a lawn, add blue grama grass to your list of species to plant.

It is important to choose the appropriate soil for your grass type.

Lawn care is made easier with a full understanding of soil types, soil conservation practices and soil classification. 

Topsoil conservation is a chief concern in areas with lots of residential or industrial development.  If you live in a new house or a recently developed neighborhood, chances are great that the good topsoil that was once on your house lot is now gone, scraped away and sold by the developer.  You have to determine what is left, and how to conserve good soil and improve less than desirable soil.

Soil classification is an important first step to building a lawn. Without properly identifying the type of soil your lawn contains or if the soil has any problems, a newly planted lawn may have trouble getting off to a healthy start.

What is in Soil?

• Pebbles and rocks
• Air
• Water
• Mineral particles (large and small)
• Nutrients dissolved in water, and nutrients bonded to soil particles
• Organic matter (twigs, leaves and other un-decomposed items)
• Humus (completely composted organic matter)
• Bacteria, fungi, insects, worms, animals and other living things

Soil Structure

The soil structure is partially affected by the types of particles in it.  A sandy soil will be loose, with lots of large air spaces in between particles.  Silty soil will also be loose, but it’s particles are smaller, so these soils have smaller pores (spaces for air or water).  Clay soil can become highly compacted.  You can tell if your soil is compacted by pouring water onto it.  If it splashes right off, and does not soak in, your soil is compacted.  You can remedy this by aerating the soil, or forking it up with a four pronged, short-handled garden fork.  The fork pictured, right, is the right type of fork to aerate your soil.  (Not your lawn!)  Simply stick the fork into the ground and use your feet to push the fork at an angle closer to the ground, lifting the soil.

Soil Texture

Your success with lawn care relies upon understanding your soil.  That will help you identify what things need to be added to the soil to make it more hospitable to plants and to beneficial organisms living in the soil.

Soil Classification

Soils are classified by the amount of sand, silt and clay in the soil.  (Sand, Silt and Clay are soil particles that have different properties.)  There are entire contests devoted to correctly identifying the official “soil type.”  Soil types include:

• Clay
• Sandy Clay Loam
• Loam
• Silty Clay Loam
• Sand
• Sandy Loam or Silty Loam
• Silt

It is not necessarily important to know exactly what your soil type is.  It is more helpful to be able to identify whether your soil has a high concentration of one of the three types of particle sizes.  Here is what to look for:

Sandy Soils

• Easy to cultivate
• Does not form clods or clumps
• Warms quickly in spring
• Feels gritty
• Moderate risk of soil erosion

Silty Soils

• Not as easy to dig when wet
• Very dusty if dry
• Moderate to high levels of organic matter
• Difficult to correct soil pH if out of line
• High erosion risk from wind and water
• Feels silky and smooth

Clay Soils

• Cannot dig easily when wet or dry
• Cannot cultivate while wet, at the risk of extreme compaction
• Soil is sticky
• Low risk of erosion

The best soil feels like pie crust before rolling it out when you push it between your thumb and your hand.  If your soil feels out of balance-too much clay or sand, the best way to improve it is to add organic matter.  Organic matter to soil is like spinach to people:  it cures almost all soil ailments.  Organic matter improves drainage, and water retention.  Healthy lawns start with healthy soil.  Understanding different types of soil classification can help with soil conservation efforts and overall lawn care.

Centipede grass is a low maintenance grass type that thrives in warm climates.

Centipede Grass is low maintenance and ideal in warmer climates.

A native of China, centipede grass made its way into the United States around 1916. Since then, it has become popular in the Southeast. Known for its low maintenance properties and ability to adapt well to warm climates, centipede grass is mostly used for lawns, parks and golf course turf.

If centipede grass is properly maintained, it rarely encounters pest problems. This grass type thrives in acidic, sandy soils found in the Southeastern region of the U.S. Centipede grass found in the Southwest often lacks adequate amounts of iron. Additionally, centipede grass doesn’t flourish in the North due to colder temperatures.

Centipede grass seed can successfully grow wherever St. Augustine grass thrives; however, centipede grass doesn’t tolerate saline environments like St. Augustine grass, but it endures colder temperatures better and necessitates less mowing. Slow-growing and coarse in texture, centipede grass flourishes in areas that receive a great deal of sunlight. Additionally, centipede grass does not withstand heavy amounts of traffic.

The establishment of centipede grass occurs via seed, sod or sprigs. Centipede grass seed should spread by hand or with a seeder. With sod or sprigs, centipede grass care is just as important as with seed, and they require more hard work when planting. With appropriate attention, centipede grass can be fully established within three months.

Yellow-greenish in color, centipede grass produces a dense turf. In mild climates, this grass type remains green year round. Because it poorly tolerates cold temperatures, centipede grass does not enter a phase of inactivity during unfavorable conditions. Nevertheless, it resumes growth immediately after temperatures become favorable again.

During hot summer months, centipede grass requires appropriate water management. Also, it does not withstand drought-like conditions very well, so proper amounts of water are vital to keep it healthy and strong. Oftentimes homeowners apply too much nitrogen to their centipede grass, believing it will improve its growth and color; however, it can cause a handful of other problems if over-fertilized. Essentially, centipede grass should receive one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet during the summer and fall, with summer applications being optional.

For homeowners who live in warmer regions of the United States, centipede grass is a great option for a beautiful and healthy lawn. With proper centipede grass care, a lawn covered with centipede grass is stronger and will live longer.

There are a variety of methods to ensure that your grass seeds germinate properly.

Planting a new lawn involves holding your breath, hoping that grass seed germination goes well.  There are several actions you can take to ensure that your grass seed germinates properly, giving you the thick, green lawn you hoped for when you started planting.  Here are some pointers to help you get the best results.

Step One:  Prepare the Soil

The key to successful lawn and garden maintenance is always to properly prepare the soil.  Whether you are starting with bare ground, or are renovating an existing lawn, you can improve germination rates if you aerate the soil and top-dress it with compost.  That will break up the soil, and introduce organic matter-both of which will make it easier for the roots to grow and establish.

Step Two:  Select the Right Seed for the Location

You will often hear gardeners say “right plant, right place.”  You really will have better results if you select a grass species that will do well in the area you want to plant it.  Some grass types are better adapted to sun, and others to shade.  Some like dry, sandy soils, while others need a richer base.

Step Three:  Plant at the Proper time for your Selected Grass

Some grasses are cool season, while others are warm season.  You will have better grass seed germination if you plant at the appropriate time.  Warm season grasses will grow most rapidly when planted in late April or early May.  The soil is warm, but not overwhelmingly hot.  Cool season grasses like rye and bluegrass do best when planted in the fall.  Mid-September to Mid-October works well for these.  The days are getting shorter, the soil is cooling and the nights are cool.

Step Four:  Spread Grass Seed Evenly

Using either a drop spreader or a rotary spreader will help you achieve even coverage.  Both types of spreaders will need to be calibrated for your personal use.  The speed at which you walk and the setting of the spreader will determine how much seed is put down per a specific period of time, and where it goes.  Your spreader should come with instructions for calibration.

Step Five:  Maintain Adequate Moisture

Seeds contain within them baby plants.  The plant embryos are alive, but they are metabolizing very, very slowly.  When you expose the seeds to water, they begin to “wake up,” in a sense.  You need to maintain adequate and even moisture throughout the germination process in order to get even grass seed germination rates.  One way to do this is to water lightly three or four times a day, always stopping before sundown.  (You do not want fungal disease to take hold during germination.)  You can also top-dress your seeding with compost or straw to help keep the seeds covered and moist.  The germination time will vary depending upon the species of grass.

Step Six:  Stay off the Grass

You really do need to stay off the grass until it has had a chance to establish.  While that might not be directly related to germination success, it is directly related to establishment.  If you don’t allow the plants the time they need to establish, it doesn’t matter how good the germination was!  You need to stay off of warm season grasses for up to three months, if you grow them from seed, because they are not as easy to establish from seed.  Cool season grasses are usually “good to go” after about a month.

Follow these tips when you establish a new lawn, and you will have excellent grass seed germination results!

Grass plugs are an alternative to seeding or laying sod.

Some types of grass start better from seed, while others are easier to establish from grass plugs. Many warm season grasses establish better when you plant grass plugs rather than seeds.  Because plugs aren’t inexpensive, and most people do not work with them on a regular basis, here’s a refresher on how to work with them so that your lawn establishes quickly and evenly.

Adjust your Expectations for Grass Plugs

The only way to get an “instant lawn” is by using sod.  Every other method will take some time to establish.  Seed takes the longest to fully establish, then plugs, with sod being the quickest.  If you space your grass plugs one every twelve square inches, it might take two or three growing seasons to achieve complete coverage.  If you space every six inches, it will take one to one and a half growing seasons to establish.  You will be much more likely to give your new grass the care it needs, rather than the care you want to give it, if you adjust your expectations to what will work well for the grass, rather than you!

Prepare the Ground for Grass Plugs

Your new plants will establish much easier if you prepare the ground ahead of time.  Soil compaction is a leading cause of turf problems.  Compacted soil does not hold water well or drain well.  It does not have tiny spaces for oxygen, which plants need in order to break down the sugars they make during photosynthesis.  To alleviate any problems with compaction, aerate the lawn and rake a thin layer of compost or a lightweight topsoil/compost blend and water the lawn well.  Even if you do not aerate the lawn before installing the grass plugs, give it at least one inch of water every other day for a week before you install the grass.  This will make enough water available for the new grass, and will be available at lower levels as the roots grow.

Install the Grass Plugs

You need to do all of the prep work before your grass plugs are delivered to you, because once they arrive you have a very short window to install them.  It is recommended that you get your plugs directly from a grower, and do not buy plugs that have been sitting in trays on a shelf in a hardware store (the same goes for sod).  Plugs are just sod that are cut up into smaller pieces.  Once it leaves the ground, its health declines rapidly until it is re-planted.  You never know if plugs or sod you see at a hardware store have been there for a day or a month.  You also don’t know if they have been cared for properly.

You plant grass plugs just like you would plant any other plant.  Dig a hole, put the plug in, and press the soil around it.  The reason you press the soil is to restore capillary action within the soil.  That is the connection of water molecules from deep into the soil up to the surface.  Pressing the soil around your newly planted plug will activate capillary action with the soil in the plug and the existing soil.

Perform Proper Maintenance after Installation

Planting is the hard part.  Maintenance is the easy part.  To care for the grass after it is planted, water deeply (giving at least an inch of water) right after planting.  From the second day, on, give the plants about ¼ of an inch of water each day for a month.  At that point, you should see new growth emerging.  You can then water according to the needs of the grass species you are establishing and the weather conditions in your location.

You shouldn’t walk on or mow your newly planted grass plugs for at least one month.  At that point, you can begin mowing at the recommended height for the grass.  You can fertilize with liquid fertilizer two weeks after planting.  A slow-release, broadcast fertilizer mixed with pre emergence herbicide can be used one month after planting.  Do not over-fertilize while the grass is establishing, as you can burn the grass blades or the roots.

These directions will help you install and maintain your new grass plugs.  You will have a lush, new lawn within no time!

Overseeding a lawn can be an effective technique in achieving healthier grass.

There are two times of the year that are best for overseeding a lawn: spring and fall.  Overseeding can be employed to renovate an existing lawn to grow off-season grass to keep the lawn green when the primary turf is dormant.  Spring is the best time for lawn overseeding for  lawn renovation.  Overseeding in the fall is generally done in warmer, southern climates to ensure green grass during the winter when the warm season grasses are dormant.  Regardless of the time of year during which you seed over existing grass, these tips will help your lawn project be successful.

Preparing your Lawn for Overseeding

Follow these tips to prepare for overseeding a lawn.

• Mow the grass as short as your mower will cut. Almost scalp the grass.
• If you have time, aerate the lawn. Aeration will improve oxygenation, which will help the new grass seed grow faster and more robust.
• Top-dress the yard with a compost/topsoil blend. This will help incorporate organic matter into the lawn, improving soil structure, which will, in turn, improve grass germination and long term health.
• Water the grass thoroughly-giving it at least one inch of water a day after top-dressing. This will put water into the soil so that as the grass seed starts to germinate, it has the necessary moisture to do well.

How to Achieve Even Coverage of Seed

Once the yard is prepared for overseeding, use these techniques to achieve even coverage of the lawn with the grass seed.

• Calibrate your spreader-you do this to set the spreader drop rate according to your stride. How fast you walk will influence the coverage. Your spreader will have instructions for doing this.
• Then, fill the spreader with half of the seed and spread the seed evenly walking in one direction. Next, fill the spreader with the other half of the seed and overseed walking perpendicular to the previous direction. Whether you overlap each row slightly depends on whether you are using a drop spreader or a broadcast spreader. With drop spreaders, you do not overlap-but you do precisely line up with your row. Broadcast spreaders require overlapping the throw patter by about 1/3 on the next pass.
• To keep the seed coverage even, top-dress the grass seed with a light compost mix. You only want to just barely cover the seed. This is more of a dusting of material. It will help keep moisture near the seeds and help increase capillary action of the soil.

Follow-up Care after Overseeding a Lawn

Once you have successfully completed lawn overseeding, you need to care for it properly to ensure that it thrives.  Here are the best ways to ensure good germination rates and healthy growth of your lawn overseeding project.

• Protect the lawn from foot traffic from people and animals.
• Water the lawn gently several times a day. Let the seed just barely dry between waterings.
• Once the grass seed has germinated well, switch the watering schedule to deeper and less frequent watering.

Following the above steps will make overseeding a lawn an easy and successful project.

Buffalo grass is native to the United States and is fairly drought tolerant.

There are few grasses native to the United States that can be grown as a lawn.  Buffalo grass is native to the central portion of the country, and as such, can be grown as a thick, drought-tolerant lawn in the central U.S.  It is a warm-season grass, so it will go dormant during the winter.

Watering Buffalo Grass

Out of all of the types of lawn grass one could grow, buffalo grass has the lowest maintenance requirements. Once it is established, it needs to be watered infrequently-generally during the hot summer months of June, July and August.  Two inches of water every other week should hold a well established buffalo grass lawn.  If anything, this grass prefers to be on the dry side, rather than the wet side.  It does not grow well in poorly drained soils.

Feeding Buffalo Grass

This type of grass does well on infertile soils.  It requires between ½ and 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, per growing season.  Soil that is too fertile can lead to pest and disease problems.

Mowing Buffalo Grass

If left alone, buffalo grass will grow to a height of ten inches.  It can be mown once a week to 2-3 inches for a residential lawn,  or every two to four weeks at a height of 3-4 inches.  If you want to plant this grass as part of a wildflower meadow, you need not mow it at all.

Establishing Buffalo Grass

This grass is slow to establish from seed (also called burs), but it can be done.  A seeded buffalo grass lawn will be stronger in the long run than one established from plugs. The grass spreads by above-ground stolons, and is, essentially a clumping grass.  Whether you seed or use plugs, it will take a couple of growing seasons for a thick turf to establish.  Treated buffalo grass seed germinates better than un-treated seed.  There are many different cultivars available, so check to see which cultivar will do best in your area.

Preferred Growing Conditions of Buffalo Grass

This type of grass needs full sun to grow.  It will not grow well in shade, or even part shade.  It does best in well drained soil, that is not overly fertile.  It is well adapted to clay soil, and not as well adapted to sandy soils. Foot traffic damages buffalo grass, because it does not have underground stems.  It should be planted primarily in areas that do not get a lot of foot traffic.  It is good for bank stabilization, parking lot medians, and other rough growing conditions.

Buffalo Grass Pests and Diseases

There are few pests and diseases that bother this grass, if it is maintained properly.  Grubs are one common pest, and can be eliminated with milky spore.

This low maintenance grass type makes an excellent lawn choice for homes in the central plains of the United States. The key to a healthy buffalo grass lawn is to mow at the proper height and avoid over watering and over fertilizing.

Ornamental grass adds a nice aesthetic touch to any lawn. This Pampas grass is low maintenance relatively easy to grow.

There are lots of reasons to grow ornamental grasses:  they are low maintenance, resistant to pests and diseases and they are available in a huge variety of sizes, textures and colors.  Ornamental grasses add pizzazz to any lawn or garden area, and they are easy to grow.

Ornamental Grass Seed

Most home gardeners will want to buy ornamental grass plants, rather than seeds.  These plants are treated more like annuals and perennials than as grass plants.  There are some varieties of ornamental grass that are easy to grow from seed.  They are:

Bouteloua spp.
Briza
Eragrostis spp.
Hordeum
Koeleria
Panicum spp.
Pennisetum spp.
Sorghastrum nutans
Stipa spp.

You do need to be careful when planting ornamental grass seed, as some of the grasses that are easy to grow from seed are also invasive in the landscape. Grasses are an integral part of the natural prairie landscape, and many are native to the prairie.  If you are establishing a wildflower meadow, you will definitely want to add native ornamental grass seed into your seed mix.

Care and Maintenance

All grasses flower, and for some, the flower is the main attraction.  Panicum species and cultivars usually have beautiful flowers and seed-heads.  Sea oats grass is another that has interesting seeds.  Muhly grass is growing almost entirely for its fluffy, pink, cloud-like flower.  The main attraction of the grass does relate to its care.  For grasses that are somewhat invasive, you will want to cut off the flowers before they go to seed and spread.  Grasses with sturdy stems can be left to dry out in areas that do not see large snowfalls.  This is one of the main attractions of growing ornamental grasses in southern and temperate zones.

Ornamental grasses require little care.  If you plant the grass in its preferred conditions (sandy soil, clay soil, full sun, part shade, etc.), and help it establish, it will survive with nothing more than a trim each spring before it begins to grow.

Plants to Avoid

There are some ornamental grasses that are extremely invasive and should not be planted in the garden.  Here are the plants to avoid:

• Pampas grass:  Cortaderia selloana and C. jubata
• Japanese Silver Grass: Miscanthus sinensis
• Reed Canary Grass Phalaris arundinacea

Native Ornamental Grasses

There are a lot of beautiful, native ornamental grass varieties that you can plant instead of invasive, exotic varieties.  Here are some beauties that won’t wreck the environment:

• Indian grass Sorghastrum nutans
• Big bluestem Andropogon gerardii
• Purple top Triodia flava
• Switch grass Panicum virgatum
• Little bluestem Schizachyrium scoparium
• Bottlebrush Hystrix patula
• Wild oats Uniola latifolia

No garden is really complete these days without several ornamental grass plants. Check your local garden center for plants that will grow well in your zone.

Hydroseeding may be a smart alternative to traditional lawn planting methods.

Have you ever envied your neighbor’s lawn and wondered how his grass remains healthy and vibrant year-round? If you’re in the process of building a lawn, it’s best to research various planting methods, types of grass and soil, maintenance requirements, etc. While there are advantages to laying sod and dry-seeding techniques, hydroseeding is also an effective approach that will transform your lawn into one that’s equally-if not more-beautiful than your neighbor’s.

What Is Hydroseeding?

Effective and efficient, hydroseeding is growing in popularity amongst homeowners and those in the landscaping business. Seed, fertilizer, water and fiber mulch are all combined in a tank and then sprayed onto a prepared lawn using a hose. The wet fiber mulch binds with the soil, provides the seeds with added moisture and nutrients (especially during its own decomposition period), and protects the mixture from sunlight, erosion and other environmental elements. With hydroseeding, the growth is fast due to the breakdown of the mulch; the application is easy; and the cost is reasonable.

Advantages of Hydroseeding

• Hydroseeding is ideal for large lawns. In fact, aircraft application is utlized for vast areas (i.e. commercial sites, golf courses, areas burned from forest fires).
• Hydroseeding controls erosion and improves the quality of the soil.
• Lawns that are sloped, hilly or uneven greatly benefit from hydroseeding.
• Hydroseeding is less expensive than laying sod.
• Lawn growth is quick with hydroseeding.
• The fiber mulch in the mixture provides additional nutrients and moisture to the seeds, allowing for a healthy lawn from the start.

Disadvantages of Hydroseeding

• Hydroseeding can be more expensive than other traditional planting techniques, such as dry-seeding.
• Hydroseeding requires specialized equipment, so if you’re hoping to do the job yourself, it might be best to opt for another method of planting.
• Oftentimes, hydroseeding companies only offer a few types of fertilizers and grasses from which to choose.

Soil Preparation for Hydroseeding

The soil must be properly prepared when hydroseeding. First, the soil should be free of debris. Then, the soil must be plowed and spread with fertilizer (the state of your soil will determine how much fertilizer you will need to use). Once you’ve tilled the soil, smooth out the area for a level surface, and then gently pack and moisten it.

Hydroseeding is best performed during the fall, spring and early days of summer. If you’re still uncertain which method of planting is best, call a lawn care professional who can give more information and advice. But, rest assured that hydroseeding is an inexpensive, fast and easy planting technique that bestows a beautiful, dark-green lawn (and one that will cause your neighbor to be green with envy!).

St. Augustine grass may just be the perfect grass type for your lawn!

St. Augustine grass thrives in Southern soil, withstanding high temperatures and saltwater from the ocean

Coarse in texture and dark green in color, St. Augustine grass is a popular type of grass that grows from the Carolinas to Florida, and along the Gulf Coast to Texas and even California. St. Augustine grass is similar to bermuda grass and can survive in sunny, tropical areas; consequently, this type of grass is extremely vulnerable to cooler temperatures. Because there are no seeds, St. Augustine grass is typically planted as sprigs, plugs or sod.

St. Augustine Grass Care

Is your lawn covered in St. Augustine grass but you’re unsure of how to care for and maintain it? For starters, St. Augustine grass likes to be fed. If given the appropriate amount of fertilizer, this type of grass will produce an aesthetically stunning appearance, as well as resist weed growth. For the grass to change green rapidly, apply a fertilizer that’s made up of fast-release nitrogen (apply using a fertilizer spreader).

When you mow your St. Augustine grass, don’t mow too closely. Why? If the grass is too short, St. Augustine grass can become weakened and prone to weeds. If you live in an area where there is a shortage of rainfall, don’t cut the grass altogether, as this can add additional stress.

If you’re considering planting St. Augustine grass, the best time to do so is during the spring or early months of summer. During the beginning growth stage, you should water your St. Augustine grass frequently throughout the day and in short periods.

St. Augustine Grass Insects & Pests

The chinch bug and the St. Augustine Decline (SAD) virus both pose threats to St. Augustine grass. By noshing on the stems at the leaf sheath base, the chinch bug causes harm to St. Augustine grass. The SAD virus can be transmitted from mowing equipment; once a lawn with St. Augustine grass has been infected with the virus, the grass becomes weaker and is oftentimes overcome with bermuda grass or weeds. Symptoms include grass that’s stunted and random spots of dead grass throughout the lawn. Although symptoms remain, the SAD virus can be treated with fertilization and responds well to iron in the summertime.

One size fits all unfortunately doesn't apply to grass! Find the right grass type for your lawn!

In many of the articles on this site, we frequently mention that in order to best care for your grass, you need to know what species it is, and the unique care requirements for that type of lawn grass. While characteristics of care are mostly similar for several grass types, each grass has its own mowing requirements and feeding requirements.  Water use varies by species and climate.

Zoysia Grass Types

Preferred climate: does best in warmer, humid areas in the southern United States.  Some cultivars are more cold or shade tolerant than others.

Nutrient Requirements: Uses three to five pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 feet during the growing season.

Water Requirements: Drought tolerant once established.

Mowing Height: Depends upon the cultivar; generally happiest between ¾ and 1 ½ inches

Other: Very slow growing. If you want to plant a lawn from Zoysia, it is best to use sod.  Will establish via plugs, but will not reach optimum coverage for one year using this method.

Bluegrass

Preferred climate: A cool season type of lawn grass that grows best between 60-70 degrees, Fahrenheit.

Nutrient Requirements: Needs 5-6 pounds of nitrogen per year during establishment.  After it is well-established, can live on 2-3 pounds per 1,000 square feet per year.

Water Requirements: Needs the most water during the spring and fall when it is actively growing.  Growth will slow dramatically during the summer.

Mowing Height: Does best with a mowing height of between 2 ½ to 3 inches.

Other: This grass is an annual grass that re-seeds prolifically.  It continuously forms new rhizomes (modified stems), which is another way that the grass spreads and grows.

Bermudagrass

Preferred climate: This type of lawn grass prefers a warm climate.  It is very cold sensitive. It will actively (though that is a somewhat subjective term) grow in temperatures down to 34 degrees Fahrenheit, but beyond that, the grass grows dormant.  It needs full sun to grow well.  Bermudagrass is not at all shade tolerant.

Nutrient Requirements: A heavy feeder, this grass type can use regular applications of nitrogen throughout the growing season.

Water Requirements: Bermuda is not a picky turf, though it will go dormant or become susceptible to insect problems if it becomes overly dry.

Mowing Height: Depending upon the cultivar, Bermudagrass is happiest when mown at a height of between ¾ and 1 inch.  This turf needs to be mown very short.

Other: Bermuda is used for so many different things-athletic fields, golf courses, and ball fields because it can take heavy foot traffic, and will recover well from it.  It is a very aggressive turf, so it is best not to plant this turf on the border with another.  Because of its aggressive growth habit, this grass is good for erosion prone areas and for bank stabilization.  It spreads via running stems, and is best established via sod.

St Augustine

Preferred climate: St Augustine grass is a warm season perennial grass type that is originally native to Mexico.  It prefers humid climates, so it can grow as far north as the coastal Carolinas in the southern United States.  It does not do well in overly dry conditions.

Nutrient Requirements: St Augustine grass does not need a lot of heavy feeding, but it does respond well to nitrogen feedings, and will “green up” and grow lavishly after being fed.

Water Requirements: Needs at least one inch of water per week.  It can survive in cooler climates if they are humid with adequate rainfall.

Mowing Height: Performs best at a height of 2 to 2 ½ inches.  Mowing goes a long way toward promoting good growth habits with this grass type.

Other: It is considered a good pasture grass, but because it does not do well in dry conditions, it has yet to become very widely used outside of southern coastal regions.

Factors to Consider when Selecting Lawn Grass Types

The health of your lawn depends greatly on your ability to care for the grass adequately.  It is much easier to care for grass that is happy in its location-well suited to its location-than to try to continually change the current growing conditions.  Homeowners should carefully consider the following when selecting a lawn grass:  drainage condition of soil, organic matter content, yearly climate and temperature fluctuations, and the amount of sun or shade the grass will receive.  Water availability is also a consideration.  Planting a type of grass that will do well within the current growing conditions will go a long way toward ensuring lawn health without constant soil maintenance.

To plant grass seed or lay sod? That is the question.

You want to plant a lawn, but don’t know whether to plant grass seed or lay sod.  Which works better?  Which will give you the best long-term results?  Depending upon where you live, one will work better than the other.  Here’s how to decide which lawn building technique will be best for you.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Lawn Sod

Sod provides a homeowner with an instant lawn, and that is hard to beat.  It does require constant maintenance after installation.  Sod must be kept watered, and the homeowner needs to keep an eye on it to ensure that no fungal diseases are invading the lawn.  (Characterized by large dead circular shaped patches in the lawn.)  Prior to installation, the ground upon which the sod will be installed needs to be raked and leveled, and all weeds removed.   Sod is also more expensive than grass seed and must be installed on the day it is cut for it to be healthy.  A homeowner can prepare and plant grass seed his or her own lawn, but it is better to hire a professional to lay sod.  Never purchase a few squares of sod from a large home and garden store, because there is a great chance that it has been sitting for more than a day, and may or may not root well.  Sod works well for homeowners in either the north or the south—areas with cold winters and hot summers, or areas with mild winters and hot summers.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Planting Grass Seed

Planting grass seed is easier than sodding, if you live in areas where grass grows well from seed.  It is certainly less expensive, and requires about the same amount of maintenance after planting.  Seeded lawns must be watered frequently, but not deeply, to keep the seed moist during germination.  Food traffic must be strictly limited until the grass is at least two inches tall.  Seeded lawns grow best in the north, where there are hot summers and cold winters.  Bluegrass and rye are good types of grass seed for lawns.  In the south, where St.Augustine grass, Zoysiagrass and Bermuda are popular turf, sod is better for establishment.  If you seed your lawn and it rains, the germination pattern can end up being quite irregular, and you may need to overseed several times.

Lawn Installation Costs

The cost of installing a lawn does vary depending upon how much work a homeowner is willing to do himself.  It also depends upon the market.  Price of sod can run between $0.50-$1.00 per square foot, with installation running between $150 and $300 per pallet.  Grass seed costs about $0.01 per square foot.  Installation varies widely depending upon the method used.  Seed can be spread with rotary spreaders, or can be blown out of a hose with a material that keeps it in place.  The cost of professional seeding is much lower than sodding, as it is less labor-intensive, and requires less energy to transport the materials.  (Enough sod for 5,000 square feet would take tractor-trailers to transport.)

Deciding which method of lawn installation is best for you depends upon the amount of money you wish to spend and your location.  Both sod and grass seed produce lush, healthy lawns under the right conditions.

The characteristics of Bermuda Grass make it a perfect candidate for golf courses all across the southern U.S.

You have recently moved from the winter storms of the North to the South’s sunny acres. You have spent years cultivating and maintaining yards abundant in bluegrass, winter rye grass, and fescues, but are a bit unsure when it comes to lawn coverings of the South. There are a variety of grasses grown in southern lawns, but one of the most prevalent is Bermuda grass.

Why Plant Bermuda Grass?

The fertile Bermuda grass has been called “the bluegrass of Dixieland”; it is a grass that is frequently found on the numerous golf courses throughout the South. Bermuda grass thrives under the intense sun, preferring temperatures of 50*F or higher, with no shade trees or bushes. Bermuda grass (it Latin name is Cynodon) is aesthetically appreciated as it is very low to the ground. The grass has a deep root system which allows the Bermuda grass to be erosion resistant, and able to withstand excessive foot traffic. Bermuda grass contains both rhizomes (underground runners that extend sideways to start new plants) and stolons (above ground runners that spread grass varieties) so it works great as a ground cover repair.

Lawns started using Bermuda grass seed can be thick and verdant within 3 months of planting. There are a variety of hybrid grasses and cultivars which have come from Bermuda grass seeds that have been designed to adapt to cooler weather, have more color, softer texture and are able to withstand disease better. These Bermuda grass cultivars are Tifsport, Tifway, Aussie Green, Celebration, Premiere, Patriot, and Ashmore.

In spite of all its great features, Bermuda grass does have a few drawbacks. These negatives are:

1. Bermuda grass requires more nitrogen that other warm weather grasses which results in attracting insects.
2. Bermuda grass forms thatch and requires a great deal of maintenance.
3. Bermuda grass must be edged as in can be invasive.
4. Bermuda grass will turn a straw color after a frost, so it is necessary to plan on winter overseeding.

Bermuda Grass Q&A:

1. What zones should plant Bermuda grass seeds?
   USDA zones 7-10
2. Where did Bermuda grass originate?
   Africa
3. What is the pH range of Bermuda grass?
   5.8 to 7.5
4. How long is the germination and establishment?
   Between 7 – 14 days
5. How high should you let Bermuda grass grow?
   1-2 inches
6. How much water is needed?
   Average amount
7. What is the nitrogen level?
   4-5 at pounds per square foot
8. What is Bermuda grasses salt tolerance?
   Good
9. How much maintenance is needed?
   Bermuda grass requires a great deal of care; it could be called the diva of the warm season grasses.
10. What soil is best for planting Bermuda grass seeds?
    Bermuda grass will grow in any soil type
11. How tolerant is Bermuda grass to insect and disease?
    Bermuda grass has only a mild tolerance level
12. When is the best time of year to plant Bermuda grass seed?
    April

Planting a new lawn doesn't have to be a hassle. Taking the proper steps when planting a lawn will make the job easier.

The book of Ecclesiastes states, “To everything there is a season…a time to plant and a time to pluck up that which is planted.” This is certainly true for anyone who wishes to have a lush green lawn. “But where do I begin?” you ask. “Do I need any special tools?” and “What type of seeds will be best for planting a lawn I can be proud of?”  Don’t fear. Planting a new lawn is not an insurmountable task nor does it require a degree in horticulture.

Where Do I Begin When Planting Grass Seed?

The first step in planting a new lawn is not with the grass seed, but rather it begins with the soil. Unless you have healthy soil, all the time and money spent on grass seed will come to naught. To ascertain your soil’s health and readiness for planting grass seed, it is recommended that you get your soil tested for its nutrients/acidity levels. Once you have the results, you can begin to make any adjustments for planting a lawn. Components of healthy soil are minerals (glacial material and decaying rock), water, air, and organic material (any carbon based material). These components, combined with texture and soil structure, all play a vital role in preparing for planting grass seed. Other factors are the depth of your topsoil (a minimum of 6 inches) and draining or flooding concerns.

What Tools Do I Need to Plant a Lawn?

Depending on how large your yard is, you have a few choices in the tools you use. However, some of the standard tools for preparing and planting a new lawn are a small tractor with bucket leader, a bull dozer or a grader blade (aka power rake) which can be rented. If you opt for a less expensive, though more physical route, you can use a landscape rake, a drum roller, a seed spreader, a shovel or spade, a hose with a spray nozzle and edging materials.

Planting Grass Seed—What Is The Best?

In selecting the type of grass to plant, be sure to select a variety that will work well with your demographics, amount of sunlight and the appearance and characteristics of the chosen grass. Grasses like Bluegrass, Perennial Rye, Fairway Wheat, and assorted Fescues do well in cold weather regions and in warm regions grasses like Bahia, Bermuda, Centipede, St. Augustine, Seashore Paspalum, Zoysia and Carpet Grass are recommended.  Some characteristics to keep in mind are the varieties’ tolerance levels for salt, drought, high heat, extreme cold, its growth rate, and fertilizer requirements. Planting a lawn can be achieved either by laying sod or by planting grass seed.

Step by Step-Planting a Lawn:

1. Spread the seed – set the dial on the seed spreader on low, fill the hopper with 1/3 of the amount needed for the area then make 3 passes across the area from different directions.
2. Roll the lawn with a drum roller.
3. Cover the seed – Although many people use hay or straw, it is better to use a fine layer of compost.
4. Heavily water the lawn – After planting grass seed, you should water your lawn as much as 3x a day to keep the surface soil moist.
5. Reseed and Re-evaluate – 2-3 weeks later note and reseed any areas that grass is not growing well. If shaded areas are not thriving, you may want to select a different variety of grass for those areas.

Planting a new lawn takes time, but when you walk outside on a balmy summer night, and see a luxurious blanket of lush green, all your work will be worth it!